Hi All,
Reading the title I know you all must have naughty thoughts…But this love is not for any beautiful chick or love stories like DDLJ, Romeo or Juliet, HDDCS etc. but I am talking here the love for mountains….The Pride of India-The Great Himalayas.
Reading the title I know you all must have naughty thoughts…But this love is not for any beautiful chick or love stories like DDLJ, Romeo or Juliet, HDDCS etc. but I am talking here the love for mountains….The Pride of India-The Great Himalayas.
I have been to Himalayas now for 4 to 5 times and every time they have ensured to mesmerize me by the awesome beauty, the grandness, never ending mountain slopes, ranges and vertical cliffs and cruxes…This year I got time to do my Basic Mountaineering Course at Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports (ABVIMAS) and I came close to these mountains once again but this time too they ensured to give me a different experience and a sense of divinity….I don’t believe much in god etc..but I do believe in forces of nature and whenever I look at these mountains they make me feel happy and a feeling of being one…They teach us to be humble by just bestowing the greatness and pride along with kindness and love. Whenever I look at Himalayas, I feel there is still so much in world to be trapped in this tiny eyes and brains and how small a man is against these vast, huge and rich Himalaya.
I was in for 26 day course and travelled to Delhi by flight and then by Bus to Manali..It was a overnight bus journey and as I started approaching Kullu in morning, the Great Peer-Panjal range of Himalayas offered a welcome to my eyes…I was still thinking am I sure to do this course? Will I be able to do it? With all these thoughts I reached Manali Bus Stand for Private Buses, near Piccadilly Multiplex and Hotel agents blocking my bus entry…Suddenly I was between so many people surrounded and behind them the peaks and greenery and faraway snow clad mountains…I came back to life from this view and pushed away through agents to take my baggage from bus storage. I looked for an auto to take me to institute and reached institute by 9.30 A.M. on 30th April’2010.
I was in for 26 day course and travelled to Delhi by flight and then by Bus to Manali..It was a overnight bus journey and as I started approaching Kullu in morning, the Great Peer-Panjal range of Himalayas offered a welcome to my eyes…I was still thinking am I sure to do this course? Will I be able to do it? With all these thoughts I reached Manali Bus Stand for Private Buses, near Piccadilly Multiplex and Hotel agents blocking my bus entry…Suddenly I was between so many people surrounded and behind them the peaks and greenery and faraway snow clad mountains…I came back to life from this view and pushed away through agents to take my baggage from bus storage. I looked for an auto to take me to institute and reached institute by 9.30 A.M. on 30th April’2010.
I got a room, my cot, bed sheet, pillow and blanket in D-2 room of the old hostel…The hostel rooms were shabby and were not cleaned properly. There was a lone broken mirror on wall and some batch mate
s. I was so happy to see a guy named Shailesh in my room….he was from Ghatkopar and we immediately became friends…I got fresh in the dark bathroom of hostel (perhaps it was purposely kept dark to hide the shabbiness and water dripping from ceiling). I was thinking am I going to spend 26 days in this hostel? But nevertheless I thought of utilizing the day to maximum entertainment and hence me and Shailesh decided to spend a day in Manali….We decided to not take auto (Biggest Mistake) and walk around…We went to Mall Road the main market of Manali and checked out some newly married blushing chicks with their husbands, who came for their honeymoon and frnds they were real treat for eyes…But soon after this eye exercise my stomach started feeling hungry and we had nice “Aloo Paratha with Dahi” and we decided to move to Hidimba Temple….On w
ay we came across Manali Nature Park and decided to venture in….We saw some beautiful birds and bear who was being fed “Lays” by two teen aged girls…I don’t recollect whether we went to check out the bear or girls…But bear was not at all interested in girls and was more interested in the “Lays – No one can eat just one!!!” After this we moved to the temple and it was steep walk uphill and by the time we reached we were panting….I realized again am I going to get through this course??? After having more feast for eyes at Hidimba temple we moved to museum and Ghatotkacha temple….After this we moved down and decided to watch a movie and have dinner…We had some fast food and watched “Housefull” and returned to Hostel by night…I got introduced to some batch mates and next day the course began….
Day 1: 5.30 A.M. We had to report after having our tea and we went for jogging….Since it was first day it was supposed to be short one and we jogged and walked for 3 KM had some heavy exercises on a bridge of river Beas in Aleo and came back to the campus by 7.00 A.M. Here it was supposed to be normal PT and first we felt at ease…But more it continued; we realized our muscles are tightening and in some cases giving up….even stretching a hand was painful…Also the walk around Manali one day before had taken toll on us. Normal exercises like stretching hand and rotating wrist was also becoming painful….
After this was breakfast and we had an introduction lecture by Dy. Director Mr. Rajeev Sharma, an Everester and we were also introduced to some instructors. Our Course in charge was Mr. Jagat Thakur, Who also is an Everester and he was going to join next day. We were split in teams known as ropes and instructors took care that no two people from same states are in same ropes. My rope no was 5. After this was an issue of equipment…The equipment issued was
1] Haversack
2] Sleeping Bag without Cover occupying almost full sack
3] Inner
4] Sleeveless Feather Jacket
5] Carabineer
6] Seat Harness7] Rope Sling
8] Helmet
9] Windproof top and bottom
10] Mess Tin
11] Ice-Axe
12] Carry Mat
13] Balaclava
14] Gaiters
We collected the equipment and dumped into the sack and went for lunch…Food prepared was very heavy…like breakfast used to be chole-puri, bread-butter & daliya with an option of cheese cube or egg and once and only once the favorite aloo paratha was there too…Lunch was chapatti, subzi, some dry mixed salad and bland dal and rice….no mirchi or salt in it….
Next day onwards this heavy sack was on our backs for all activities.
Day 2 to Day 6: We were in through a regular schedule. Every day early morning walks started becoming longer and one day we even had to wear those heavy snow shoes and get used to walking wearing them and if any issue get them changed from stores. We went walking with our Rucksacks to Vashisht, Hidimba Temple, Suru Devi temple etc. After morning heavy exercises we had breakfast and then we used to go the rock field approx 2KM form our Institute campus, for learning and practicing the techniques of rock climbing, rappelling etc.
Rock Climbing was really challenging. Many a times we were just on pinch holds negotiating face of rock, though belay was always there. We learnt different types of holds, belay techniques, anchoring and use of mechanical equipment for climbing. I enjoyed doing chimney climbing. Rappelling was really easy and enjoyable. We learnt techniques like
Shoulder, Hand and Mechanical Rappelling.
Couple of days we had evening Obstacles and it was night mare…obstacles were really heavy and running made me tired like anything…Obstacles had balancing, wall crossing, jumping over trenches, trenching on elbows, alpine ladder etc and that too 3 rounds on first day and 4 rounds on second. Man this almost killed me and I felt like running away from the institute, But I had promised a friend whom I lost in Oct’2009 that once in life I will surely do this course. This helped me to be determined and stay on in the course. Mangesh* I owe this to you.
Best part of the day used to be the lectures in afternoons 3.00 P.M. to 4.00 or 4.30 P.M. I used to love lectures as we used to get best rest only during this time and some people used to doze off…sometimes people even snored in lectures!!! Lectures were on topics like Introduction to Himalaya, Hazards in Mou
ntains, Mountain illnesses and Mountain manners. I really attended this with interest and knew wherever I am weak in practical, I can cover in theory. All this for ‘A’ grade else you will not be allowed to do Advance Course and you will have to again do Basic Course.
We also learned different rope knots during this days and different ways to coil rope. We had to regularly practice knots as there would be surprise test anytime. In fact I learnt and knew knots well but on test day somehow made some silly mistakes and did not go well, but covered up in second test in Bakarthach….coming up!!!
Few evenings we were also shown Mountaineering Movies in Institute Auditorium and some movies were really amazing, specially on rock climbing. We were also shown all mountaineers favorite movie ‘Vertical Limit’ in 2 separate sessions. We also had a movie on expedition to Kanchenjunga.
We were also taken on 5th Day to SASE- Snow and Avalanche Study Establishment to understand the avalanches. We were taken in chambers where temperature is few minus degree centigrade for the study. SASE was warm in hospitality as they served us tea which was really really better than our institute tea and pakora. We ate to stomach full and then it started raining. We came to SASE in bus but now we had to run back to institute and that too in rain. Very cruel on our trainers part, But now when I see back it was fun. As usual Sainik School and local Kullu guys were first in running. I ran for some time and then walked towards institute. Some people took lifts on the road and reached institute.
Day 7: This is called as Admin day or the holiday. You need to go and buy things from market what you may need in mountains up and get ready to leave for mountains. Course mates also get a break and as usual we decided to have a good day in Manali…We did some shopping and went for movie ‘Badmassh Company’…augh…ridiculous movie but thanks to Anushka Sharma, the heroine, if it was not for her sexy looks in movie; it would have been completely boring…..We had lot of fast food on roadside joints in Manali and as usual enjoyed staring at newlyweds as we were going to be cut off from the world for next 15 days….
My birthday was celebrated in the Piccadilly Multiplex and it was real different experience. Thanks to Sid and Shailesh and others
who made this possible. I owe you guys for such a wonderful and unusual celebration.
Day 8 & 9: Morning was usual with exercises, But after that we had River crossing on 8th Day and Jummaring on 9th Day. On day of river crossing water was chilling to bone and we were taught all different techniques of crossing a river here like using a Bamboo, rope and pulley arrangement, Chain etc.
Jumaring was really fun with one of our batch mates hanging upside down on rock face. We learnt Jumar techniques like Single and Double Jumar. Single jumar is done on slopes with less than 60 degree angle and double on more than that.
Evening we had lectures on the medicines and illness of mountains like HAPO, HACO, AMS etc. We also a lecture form environmentalist who was working on projects like conservation of snow leopards and he showed us the beautiful pictures of the animal. He also showed us actually how the Himalayan glaciers are depleting.
Also on 9th Day was an Obstacle test, my nightmare. But with team effort we really pulled off and I almost had died at the end of it…dead tired and cursing myself to be here!!! I really thank my rope mates for this to be pulled off….else we would have not competed in good time…Fauji Saab – My rope leader; great team work…
Day 10: Mo
rning walk was to Vashisht Temple, where hot water sulphur springs were there. We were asked to bring our towel and soap and we really had a refreshing bath. It was heaven.
After this we had a Artificial Wall Climbing Session and Bouldering. We even had to jump form one rock to another. Initially I hesitated and then finally jumped and it was real fun. After this was given as off time and to pack. I decided to take rest and listened to my music before moving to hills.
Day 11: We started early morning with all our personnel clothing and equipment in our Rucksacks. It was a great walk walking across mountains and snow clad peaks and crossing the small, shaking wooden bridges on streams and rivers. We reached Solang Nala by afternoon and we were give
n tents to stay. Our campus was bang opposite the ground of Solang Nala where all tourist activity happen like Para gliding, Zorbing, Bungee Jumping etc. We roamed around the ground and we came to know that a new rope way is starting and they are giving it for free today for trials. We enjoyed that ride too and had Maggie on Pushpa’s Dhaba (Pushpa O’ Pushpa…Read it Rajesh Khanna Style!!!) Evening we went uphill slope for acclimatization walk above the Para Gliding spot and learnt also about Flora and Fauna in the region. The view of Himalayas was really amazing. We could see Patalsu Peak and some other unidentifiable peaks…Some mountains were like covered in carpet of snow and the setting sun rays just made the scene more picturesque….The night in tent was good with lot of rest and next day we had to move for acclimatization trek to Patalsu Peak. Rule of Mountains learnt - "Work High, Sleep Low"
Day 12: Patalsu Peak one of smaller peaks in
region of height of 14500ft approx. The trek uphill was really tiring after crossing the Solang village located on hill slopes; and stops were really made enjoyable by our instructors whose sense of humor was amazing…Here we had a good sight of great Hanuman Tibba the highest peak of Dhauladhar Range of Himalayas at height of 18500Ft. Also we met a group from Mumbai and some navy camp while climbing Patalsu. Once we reached almost to height of 13000 ft or more I saw before me a gradual climbing slope going to the peak to Patalsu. The slope was lush green and laden with white and purple flowers and the peak was wearing a white cap….The walk on this slope was really soulful and I just got on one of the rocks and decided to get lost in the beauty around. Afterwards my friends started calling me and we moved further more and did lot of photography on one rock and dozed off for a peaceful rest. After this was descend and we went to our tents. We roamed in Solang enjoying the sights of nature and the beauties created by humans!!! We had our dinner and had a tough job of packing the rucksack to move to mountains, to the place where fewer people have gone, Bakarthach-Base camp for our training on Snow and Ice.
Day 13: We started early morning after tea towards Bakarthach. It was 11KM trek and first 7 KM was on tar road and then was a steep climb to the base camp. First 7 KM went easily on road and then we crossed river with help of 2 small iron bridges and then our climb really began. ..One of the Instructors, Mr. Surinder showed me the road faraway, asking me to see it properly and hold it in my eyes as memory as I will be away from all roads or any sort of civilization for next few days- Completely cut off. Last slope was so difficult that I almost rested after every few steps. At last I reached a cairn and just sat down tired and saw the tents of base camp away. I had sip of my ditto drink and then continued the path. Now it was raining and path was with lots of ups and downs crossing lot of rivulets and finally to the camp. Gujrathi had reached and called me, Sahilesh, Sid and Ganesh in the tent. Thanks to him and I just got flat in the tent. Everyone actually had to put his own tents as we were taught in Solang to put up tents. So I went to help others and helped in erectin
g couple of tents. Then we had food and took rest. Having tea here was amazing. The base c
amp was at superb location. Right opposite my tent was Seven Sisters and Hanuman Tibba and behind was Ladakhi and Shitidhar and further down was Manali and Friendship peaks. All were covered in snow. There was green cover or tree line at my camp and above that these peaks soared and tore opened the skies with their magnificent whiteness. There was a moraine behind my camp’s kitchen. My course mates had great fun playing Volley ball in evening and then chill started settling as it started getting darker. We had our dinner and best part the hot drink was served. Me and Sid decided that washing the mess tin here is really difficult as water was too cold. So we will share the tin and wash it alternately and not properly. Even if some oil remains it is fine but to put hands in that water was out of question.
We had a lecture on the camp site in the evening and location of our toilets was shown and garbage disposal was also shown and discussed. I dug a pit behind my tent for disposing local garbage.
Day 14: Next day was acclimatization trek. We crossed moraine and then snowy slopes and reached the ridge of trunk of mountain. From here we slide down to the glacier (First slide of life on snow) and starte
d my life’s first glacier walk. I was in complete awe!!! I saw snow slurping down mountain slopes and tarns in the Glacier. The green tarns were mind boggling….Walking in snow is very heavy and with those heavy shoes, it was really heavy….so sliding down was much easier and fun filled….we all like small kids in garden started sliding at every slope we encountered even after instructions by instructors to not to do….
After we came out of Glacier we had small walk along bank of a rivulet where sand was smoothed and water was gentle…Walking here with a breeze was really fascinating. Then we again came to moraine and started in direction of ‘Beas Kund’ – The place from where Beas originates. The Beas Kund is really beautiful pure sea green color lake….it is said that it first narrows down and then again opens inside…the divers came here to explore but could not touch the bottom. To touch the waters of Beas Kund you need to remove the shoes as it is considered to be sacred and in the Indian culture we worship our rivers….From here we started back to camp
through moraine and crossing lot of streams and up and down stones and mountain slopes….it was tiring trek of almost 16KM..Back at camp we had lunch and rest and then in evening we had a lecture.
BTW there was also a BSF camp above our camp and some pother group had a camp too. The other group really had beautiful north Indian girls and while walking and panting too, I could not avoid looking at them from corner of my eyes. They caught me seeing them and wished me all d best. I realized all guys from our troupe looking at them…everyone’s eyes were ready to grab even a little bit of oasis in that desert. But I was proud that I could exchange a smile and wishes with them…ha ha ha……”Andhon mein kana raja”
Day 15&16: Next 2 days we learnt our snow craft activities. First was walking on snow based on angle of slope etc. The techniques taught were Duck Step, Side Step, Single Front Footing, Double Front Footing, Ice Axe holding techniques like Self Arrest, Self Belay etc. Going to snow field itself used to be tiring it was 25 mins walk up and down crossing few rivulets.
First we have lecture on the techniques to be practiced and demonstration on activities and then we would have to practice same. We used to get a small break for our ditto or tea and we used to be back by lunch. After lunch used to be volley ball or lecture and sometimes we used to do know practice. The discussion and fear of survival night had started doing rounds of camp. We had an important lecture on mountaineering terms. This is very essential.
Day 17: It was raining whole day and snowing in previous night. Instructors decided to wait for weather to clear, But rain gods were in our favor and we had time resting and sleeping in tents. The best rest in last few days. We really felt happy and lucky to have admin day in heights, But were we so lucky will be seen ahead?
Rain water seeped through in our tent and so Sid and me went out dug the channels around tent so that water doesn’t accumulate around tent. We also had ‘chana’ that Gujrati had got, But I was worriedsince our tent was gas chamber due to ‘Shailesh’. I hope ‘Phansukh Wangdu’
would have invented a device so that whenever a missile is fired; automatically perfume should be spread in air…..Very important invention it would have been….Also another stinking stuff was everyone’s socks outside the tent. Moment you open tent chain a pungent odor of socks would welcome you….
We got our crampons fitted for our size from our instructors. Luckily my crampons needed no adjustment so I came back and again dozed off.
Day 18: It was raining again and we thought we will again be; not having to go to field. But when clouds cleared a little; we were immediately told to move to field and by the time we reached there, it started raining again. The chill took over us and we wrapped ourselves in plastic sheets. Muthu – my batch mate was not carrying one so we shared in a single plastic sheet….Rain slowed a little and then we had demonstration of cramponing, belaying and arrest techniques and then we moved back to camp cursing our instructors for the cold.
The rumor of survival night being not there grew strong as weather was bad. We also had a lecture on Everest by Mr. Rajeev Sharma himself and he motivated us to core. His lecture used to be really informative and really helped to shake our fears off. He filled us with confidence. I got a chance to have a personnel chat with him and was surprised to know he was a banker in earlier life and shared his story of marriage and some personnel experiences of mountains. Infact his lectures brought me more closer to this mighty and magnificent Himalayas.....
Day 19: Weather was clear and we moved to snow field. First we learnt belay techniques and then glissading and arrest techniques.
Arrest techniques like team arrest were practiced. 5 people were asked to rope up and then one will have a fall and others will have to arrest his fall. The 2 people will fall and so on. When it came to only one person holding arrest, My instructor came down and started pulling our rope and checking how strong are we on arrest. Believe it or not with his help and Mr. IAS we just started getting dragged on slopes. Even I was pulling but I realized it will tough for Kumar to hold and started doing arrest to stop drag. But we were pulled more for another 200 feet almost. Actually I was red with anger, But was helpless. After practicing, we had to tie our crampons and move up a 70 degree slope all teams roped up. Descending was by plunging and if instructor is not looking then glissading was allowed!!! While plunging I had 2 or 3 falls and used arrest techniques which were taught to me to stop on the snow field.
Somehow Plunging, I enjoyed but could not master the technique. Also we were taught of balling up. Below the crampons; snow gets accumulated and then crampons don’t give good grip and hence it is important to hit the crampons with you axe so that the accumulated snow comes off and you are ready to again have good grip. This has to be repeated for every 10-15 steps depending also on the type of snow. This is very important and to be really kept in mind as balling up has taken few lives or caused falls.
We went to collect firewood in evening. After the tiring day, We all tent mates decided to have a small nap. But we got so much exhausted that we all slept and even missed our dinner. Someone came to wake us up for fall-in and we were just left with a warning. This could have been big blunder.
Day 20: Today we were taken to the Beas glacier to learn Ice craft. It was almost 2 hour walk from our camp. We had to cross a snow gully and really ascend and then through moraine to Glacier. Then it was glacier walk for some time to reach the site to practice ice techniques.
We learnt rappelling to ice, jumaring, cramponing front pointing and flat footing. By 2.00 we felt the practice was over, but we got surprise. We got lunch at the practice site some aloo subji and roti. Then we were told to practice Z Pulley rescue, c pulley rescue and self arrest rescue.
After this we were told to rope up and climb the ice wall and then have walk on glacier. We reached the edge of glacier and then we had to descend down a slope. Our Fauji wanted to be first and for me mountains is not about race. It was for me more about sinking myself in them and enjoy them, feel with them and be one with them!!! But Mr. Fauji never understood this and he started dragging me. Finally my temper blew off and then I detached myself from rope and then stared towards our camp.
By the time I reached camp, I was completely exhausted and it was late..We had pakora and tea. In dinner we also had watermelon. I have never tasted such sweet melons in my life…They were really amazing. We were also given dry ration for height gain since we will not be having lunch on the height gain day.
Day 21: It was a beautiful morning and after breakfast we started by 6.00 A.M. for height gain. The qualifying height was 15,500 feet and on Shitidhar. First stop was at Beas Kund and from here one can continue on his own pace. We were allowed to wear our trekking shoes till the snow line and after that we had to wear our heavy climbing shoes of snow.
Me and Siddharth decided to partner at Beas Kund for further task. Beas Kund itself is at 11000 odd feet and we felt we will do it slowly and steadily. We had to achieve the height 12.00 noon and after that start descending. By 12.00 noon if you don’t reach height, the height you have reached is taken for recording. I just ascended my first slope and was panting and somehow I was not in my usual walking strength. But I carried on. We came to a resting spot before we had to cross snow gully and there we had bourbon biscuits. It was heaven. At this place I changed my shoes and put on the gaiters. Looking down we consoled ourselves we must have come at least 1000 feet or more up.
After this we crossed the snow gully and started ascending the slope. We could see some people on ridge of slope and it did not seem far. We felt now we will do it. But believe me guys it is tough. The slope just goes on gradually and never ends…it is called infinity….we crossed thin snow layer to a deep 2 feet snow and still to our dismay we were not able to see instructors and nor out goal. I felt I lost this battle and now just sat in snow tired and decided to take a nap. Dong one of the batch mates too joined me and motivated me to move on. We moved few steps more and gave up. Even Dong gave up and no one was ready to move. Siddharth finally moved 10 steps more and looked ahead and shouted back to me that he can see the goal and instructors. It is now near. Dong said forget it; but then somehow I motivated him to move. Last 50-100 steps were terrible. Each step was heavier than other and finally I reached the height of 15,800 feet and my name was noted down for qualifying the height. People going down were congratulating us and I gave them same warm congratulations back…
I thrust my Ice axe in snow and caught up some breathe and then immediately photography started. My rope mates were very happy as we were the rope whose all members made it to top. We had photos with instructors and all my friends.
There was range at this place and I spoke to my dad after almost 8 days and told him that I am at this height and alive and kicking. Then I got a chance to look around and I was dumb founded at what I was seeing before my eyes…..
The Hanuman Tibba was looking so huge and really mighty….the peaks of seven sis
ters were completely different in landscape then I had imagined….on left was beautiful range which had snow covered peaks and green bottoms….I am short of words here but the moment was of trance…I was spellbound by this great mountains and they were holding me in their arms….it was just magnificent and all around was white snow and few rocks…..I can still visualize the scene and get lost into the whiteness, amazing depths that mother nature offers us, the feeling of being one in Himalayas…..a feeling of tranquility….
After this me, Shailesh and few others started descending and we were really tired plunging through this snow….I was now good at plunging but still not very good….Our water resources were depleting and at a time we were out of stock…we scrambled down and reached a spot to refill our water and stomach with dry ration we were carrying….then got down to Beas Kund and got some rest….it was already late and most of the batch mates had already left…We also started trudging along towards the camp site..But to our surprise the rivulets which we had crossed earlier in morning had become wide with lot of force of water; due to melting of ice….We somehow found way to cross it and we had to cross at 3 different places to finally make it to moraine. We finally reached camp and had some snacks and tea…
Day 22: After a good and tiring sleep, we had tests today. We were divided in 2 groups in odd and even rope numbers. We were tested on following:
1] Rock Climbing Techniques
2] Equipment Identification
3] Rappelling
4] Knots
5] Ice-Axe part identification and uses
I did well in all test here and must have scored in practicals even Knots....
Evening we had an activity called Bush craft. In this 5 papers are hidden in bushes and every rope has to be roped up and move with their team in bushes to find the papers. Rope leaders need to sign on it. The ropes are send in bushes in time interval of 2 mins. We were second last rope and last rope was too quick and they were told to collect all papers. We missed signing on one paper. But it was fun and very violent activity. It was mad race…..People of same rope will cross bushes though different level i.e. one from top of a bush branch and next guy may go below of bush branch and then whole rope will get entangled…also many ropes i.e. teams were caught in one place and entangled with each other. We were warned by instructors to cooperate with each other, but no one was in that mood….all the ‘galis’ were heard in that one session and even I was party to that….at one moment 2 other ropes were hitting my carabineer and since it was not a screw carabineer, the gate opened and other 2 ropes 2 entangled with mine….i neither could remove them as they were pulling from both ends and even my team was pulling…finally I lost my cool and gave some ‘gallis’ to stop everyone and freed myself…I badly bruised my finger in the process….Mr. IAS saw this and really made fun of me afterwards…..
After the test, we had a lecture on survival and then the rumor of Survival Night will not be held had become that it will be held came true. Survival night was declared and we were told to get our bags with only water bottles and some necessary stuff like knife and medicines. We were not even given dinner. We were allowed to wear as much clothing as we want.
Everyone was asked to go out in moraine and search for a place to spend night. My tenties, Gurinder and couple of other guys found a amazing place under rock face. It was as good as cave. All thanks to Gurinder for this place. We had found some places earlier but they were not that great. Then I had some thin nylon ropes using which we created shade on face of our cave with our plastic sheets; as it could rain any time there. He was also innovative in creating chok nuts using stones. We also covered one side face with carry mat. Me, Suman and Ganesh collected some firewood which we never used.
At 11.30 P.M. it was so chill to survive there that everyone put their feet inside the rucksack. And at night there was rain too and chill increased. We just hugged each other and had warmth and spent the night. It was real fun and we reported back to the camp on time.
There was an issue some people came in midnight back to their tents and instructors were looking for them. But no one came ahead. Discipline is very strict and integral part of this course. I don’t why some people don’t get it?
Day 23: Morning me and my tenties went to field for photography where our test had happened. We had to pack and move to Solang today. We started around 9.00 A.M. and everyone went ahead. Me and Shailesh decided to walk slowly and say bye to this graceful mountains properly. We were taking this feast of nature slowly in our eyes and felt little heavier too as it will be quite some time to come back to this mountains again. We turned back and bid adieu
to Bakarthach crossed no, of streams and rivulets and crossed Patalsu to the tents in our institute campus at Solang. We reached late and so all tents were full. But our course senior took care of us and gave us best tent.
Evening we learnt to make rope stretcher and other evacuation techniques and then had maggi and tea at Panda’s Dhaba. It is not Panda Dhaba, But we named it because there was beautiful Himachali girl in that dhaba, but little on heavier side and that kancha type look made her look like panda. Hence the name Panda Dhaba. – Coined by Sid.
We were tired too and hence got a good sleep, only 3 of us in tent me, Shailesh and Harmeet Oberoi, our Course Senior. Others had 5-6 members in tent. This rest was really important.
Day 24: We made our way back to Institute form Solang. I wished last bye to the Valley of Solang (including Pushpa and Panda) and moved towards Manali. Going to Manali was easy and we reached and checked in our hostel by 12.30 P.M. We checked into our room and it was a heavenly feeling. I was now feeling that this room is actually a luxury against the time and tough conditions in mountains we spent. The hostel was looking different to my eyes now. I felt we purposely were made to stay in this rooms earlier so that we get adapted slowly to worsened staying conditions.
We submitted back our equipment and then moved to Vashist for a bath after 14 days. Lot of batch mates were there and it was real fun to bath there. We came out and had food at a nearby restaurant and it was treat by me for my birthday, earlier in month.
Night I did reading of my notes and revised it and also helped some of my roomies and other batch mates and had a sound sleep. The soundness came from the joy of going back to family anf frnds anf thinking of sharing this wonderful and amazing experience.
Day 25: It was written test day and I was too confident of cracking this one. I knew I have to crack this for any marks lost in my practical. To my wonders I did amazingly well in written test and walked outside exam centre with a smile. I also helped few my neighbor students in the exam!!! Minimum marks are 12 to get qualified in the test for any need of grade.
Evening we got permission to go for movie. We really freaked out breaking our shackles and glaring at the flow of youthfulness on the Mall road of Manali. We saw ‘Kites’ most ridiculous part amongst all 26 days spent in Himalayas; at the Piccadilly Multiplex. BTW frnds the girl at ticket window in market is really beautiful and hence we all used to go to buy tickets…very cheap no?? but it was fun doing all this things there…all this things have a different high there….high of the mountains…..High of new friends and new relationships…a high of change....and high of the highest mountains of earth……
Day 26: After all the 25 days of hardship finally the course ended with a cultural program. Chief Guest was invited to say few words and our Mr. IAS gave a narration on what happened throughout the course. Mr.IAS did not forget to mention my bush craft episode and he really had made fun of our course senior. In the program there was a song sung by our Bihari babu – Suman followed by a Shayri. After this there was a dance depicting the ‘Mardani’ war style of Marathas and also one more song…Then there was a final formal closure speech by me and we had good lunch and it was time to depart….Initially, I was very happy that I had completed the course and in my heart dedicating this one to my lost; near and dear one – Mangesh Deshpande*. My heart was heavy that really course had ended and I will be away from this mountains and friends I made during this course. Some I may not meet again and other side was joy of going back to Mumbai and being with family and sharing this amazing experience with family and friends….
Shailesh and Sid dropped me on bus stand and I got into my bus from Manali to Delhi closed my eyes and had rewind of this most precious and wonderful 26 days…Bus started moving and I was feeling heavy saying good bye to the Beas and Himalayas. Beas was waving back the good bye with it usual naughtiness by jumping and dancing off boulders and at times silently flowing and asking me to come back…I waved back and closed my eyes to sleep visualizing the mountains and promising that I will be back again!!!
*Mangesh Deshpande was a amazing mountaineer and trekker; lost his life on Mt. Tinchen Khang on 19th Oct’ 2009.
P.S.: I got A grade in BMC and would like to dedicate this to Mangesh.
s. I was so happy to see a guy named Shailesh in my room….he was from Ghatkopar and we immediately became friends…I got fresh in the dark bathroom of hostel (perhaps it was purposely kept dark to hide the shabbiness and water dripping from ceiling). I was thinking am I going to spend 26 days in this hostel? But nevertheless I thought of utilizing the day to maximum entertainment and hence me and Shailesh decided to spend a day in Manali….We decided to not take auto (Biggest Mistake) and walk around…We went to Mall Road the main market of Manali and checked out some newly married blushing chicks with their husbands, who came for their honeymoon and frnds they were real treat for eyes…But soon after this eye exercise my stomach started feeling hungry and we had nice “Aloo Paratha with Dahi” and we decided to move to Hidimba Temple….On w
ay we came across Manali Nature Park and decided to venture in….We saw some beautiful birds and bear who was being fed “Lays” by two teen aged girls…I don’t recollect whether we went to check out the bear or girls…But bear was not at all interested in girls and was more interested in the “Lays – No one can eat just one!!!” After this we moved to the temple and it was steep walk uphill and by the time we reached we were panting….I realized again am I going to get through this course??? After having more feast for eyes at Hidimba temple we moved to museum and Ghatotkacha temple….After this we moved down and decided to watch a movie and have dinner…We had some fast food and watched “Housefull” and returned to Hostel by night…I got introduced to some batch mates and next day the course began….Day 1: 5.30 A.M. We had to report after having our tea and we went for jogging….Since it was first day it was supposed to be short one and we jogged and walked for 3 KM had some heavy exercises on a bridge of river Beas in Aleo and came back to the campus by 7.00 A.M. Here it was supposed to be normal PT and first we felt at ease…But more it continued; we realized our muscles are tightening and in some cases giving up….even stretching a hand was painful…Also the walk around Manali one day before had taken toll on us. Normal exercises like stretching hand and rotating wrist was also becoming painful….
After this was breakfast and we had an introduction lecture by Dy. Director Mr. Rajeev Sharma, an Everester and we were also introduced to some instructors. Our Course in charge was Mr. Jagat Thakur, Who also is an Everester and he was going to join next day. We were split in teams known as ropes and instructors took care that no two people from same states are in same ropes. My rope no was 5. After this was an issue of equipment…The equipment issued was1] Haversack
2] Sleeping Bag without Cover occupying almost full sack
3] Inner
4] Sleeveless Feather Jacket
5] Carabineer
6] Seat Harness7] Rope Sling
8] Helmet
9] Windproof top and bottom
10] Mess Tin
11] Ice-Axe
12] Carry Mat
13] Balaclava
14] Gaiters
We collected the equipment and dumped into the sack and went for lunch…Food prepared was very heavy…like breakfast used to be chole-puri, bread-butter & daliya with an option of cheese cube or egg and once and only once the favorite aloo paratha was there too…Lunch was chapatti, subzi, some dry mixed salad and bland dal and rice….no mirchi or salt in it….
Next day onwards this heavy sack was on our backs for all activities.
Day 2 to Day 6: We were in through a regular schedule. Every day early morning walks started becoming longer and one day we even had to wear those heavy snow shoes and get used to walking wearing them and if any issue get them changed from stores. We went walking with our Rucksacks to Vashisht, Hidimba Temple, Suru Devi temple etc. After morning heavy exercises we had breakfast and then we used to go the rock field approx 2KM form our Institute campus, for learning and practicing the techniques of rock climbing, rappelling etc.
Rock Climbing was really challenging. Many a times we were just on pinch holds negotiating face of rock, though belay was always there. We learnt different types of holds, belay techniques, anchoring and use of mechanical equipment for climbing. I enjoyed doing chimney climbing. Rappelling was really easy and enjoyable. We learnt techniques like
Shoulder, Hand and Mechanical Rappelling.Couple of days we had evening Obstacles and it was night mare…obstacles were really heavy and running made me tired like anything…Obstacles had balancing, wall crossing, jumping over trenches, trenching on elbows, alpine ladder etc and that too 3 rounds on first day and 4 rounds on second. Man this almost killed me and I felt like running away from the institute, But I had promised a friend whom I lost in Oct’2009 that once in life I will surely do this course. This helped me to be determined and stay on in the course. Mangesh* I owe this to you.
Best part of the day used to be the lectures in afternoons 3.00 P.M. to 4.00 or 4.30 P.M. I used to love lectures as we used to get best rest only during this time and some people used to doze off…sometimes people even snored in lectures!!! Lectures were on topics like Introduction to Himalaya, Hazards in Mou
ntains, Mountain illnesses and Mountain manners. I really attended this with interest and knew wherever I am weak in practical, I can cover in theory. All this for ‘A’ grade else you will not be allowed to do Advance Course and you will have to again do Basic Course.We also learned different rope knots during this days and different ways to coil rope. We had to regularly practice knots as there would be surprise test anytime. In fact I learnt and knew knots well but on test day somehow made some silly mistakes and did not go well, but covered up in second test in Bakarthach….coming up!!!
Few evenings we were also shown Mountaineering Movies in Institute Auditorium and some movies were really amazing, specially on rock climbing. We were also shown all mountaineers favorite movie ‘Vertical Limit’ in 2 separate sessions. We also had a movie on expedition to Kanchenjunga.
We were also taken on 5th Day to SASE- Snow and Avalanche Study Establishment to understand the avalanches. We were taken in chambers where temperature is few minus degree centigrade for the study. SASE was warm in hospitality as they served us tea which was really really better than our institute tea and pakora. We ate to stomach full and then it started raining. We came to SASE in bus but now we had to run back to institute and that too in rain. Very cruel on our trainers part, But now when I see back it was fun. As usual Sainik School and local Kullu guys were first in running. I ran for some time and then walked towards institute. Some people took lifts on the road and reached institute.
Day 7: This is called as Admin day or the holiday. You need to go and buy things from market what you may need in mountains up and get ready to leave for mountains. Course mates also get a break and as usual we decided to have a good day in Manali…We did some shopping and went for movie ‘Badmassh Company’…augh…ridiculous movie but thanks to Anushka Sharma, the heroine, if it was not for her sexy looks in movie; it would have been completely boring…..We had lot of fast food on roadside joints in Manali and as usual enjoyed staring at newlyweds as we were going to be cut off from the world for next 15 days….
My birthday was celebrated in the Piccadilly Multiplex and it was real different experience. Thanks to Sid and Shailesh and others
who made this possible. I owe you guys for such a wonderful and unusual celebration.Day 8 & 9: Morning was usual with exercises, But after that we had River crossing on 8th Day and Jummaring on 9th Day. On day of river crossing water was chilling to bone and we were taught all different techniques of crossing a river here like using a Bamboo, rope and pulley arrangement, Chain etc.
Jumaring was really fun with one of our batch mates hanging upside down on rock face. We learnt Jumar techniques like Single and Double Jumar. Single jumar is done on slopes with less than 60 degree angle and double on more than that.
Evening we had lectures on the medicines and illness of mountains like HAPO, HACO, AMS etc. We also a lecture form environmentalist who was working on projects like conservation of snow leopards and he showed us the beautiful pictures of the animal. He also showed us actually how the Himalayan glaciers are depleting.
Also on 9th Day was an Obstacle test, my nightmare. But with team effort we really pulled off and I almost had died at the end of it…dead tired and cursing myself to be here!!! I really thank my rope mates for this to be pulled off….else we would have not competed in good time…Fauji Saab – My rope leader; great team work…
Day 10: Mo
rning walk was to Vashisht Temple, where hot water sulphur springs were there. We were asked to bring our towel and soap and we really had a refreshing bath. It was heaven.After this we had a Artificial Wall Climbing Session and Bouldering. We even had to jump form one rock to another. Initially I hesitated and then finally jumped and it was real fun. After this was given as off time and to pack. I decided to take rest and listened to my music before moving to hills.
Day 11: We started early morning with all our personnel clothing and equipment in our Rucksacks. It was a great walk walking across mountains and snow clad peaks and crossing the small, shaking wooden bridges on streams and rivers. We reached Solang Nala by afternoon and we were give
n tents to stay. Our campus was bang opposite the ground of Solang Nala where all tourist activity happen like Para gliding, Zorbing, Bungee Jumping etc. We roamed around the ground and we came to know that a new rope way is starting and they are giving it for free today for trials. We enjoyed that ride too and had Maggie on Pushpa’s Dhaba (Pushpa O’ Pushpa…Read it Rajesh Khanna Style!!!) Evening we went uphill slope for acclimatization walk above the Para Gliding spot and learnt also about Flora and Fauna in the region. The view of Himalayas was really amazing. We could see Patalsu Peak and some other unidentifiable peaks…Some mountains were like covered in carpet of snow and the setting sun rays just made the scene more picturesque….The night in tent was good with lot of rest and next day we had to move for acclimatization trek to Patalsu Peak. Rule of Mountains learnt - "Work High, Sleep Low"Day 12: Patalsu Peak one of smaller peaks in
region of height of 14500ft approx. The trek uphill was really tiring after crossing the Solang village located on hill slopes; and stops were really made enjoyable by our instructors whose sense of humor was amazing…Here we had a good sight of great Hanuman Tibba the highest peak of Dhauladhar Range of Himalayas at height of 18500Ft. Also we met a group from Mumbai and some navy camp while climbing Patalsu. Once we reached almost to height of 13000 ft or more I saw before me a gradual climbing slope going to the peak to Patalsu. The slope was lush green and laden with white and purple flowers and the peak was wearing a white cap….The walk on this slope was really soulful and I just got on one of the rocks and decided to get lost in the beauty around. Afterwards my friends started calling me and we moved further more and did lot of photography on one rock and dozed off for a peaceful rest. After this was descend and we went to our tents. We roamed in Solang enjoying the sights of nature and the beauties created by humans!!! We had our dinner and had a tough job of packing the rucksack to move to mountains, to the place where fewer people have gone, Bakarthach-Base camp for our training on Snow and Ice.Day 13: We started early morning after tea towards Bakarthach. It was 11KM trek and first 7 KM was on tar road and then was a steep climb to the base camp. First 7 KM went easily on road and then we crossed river with help of 2 small iron bridges and then our climb really began. ..One of the Instructors, Mr. Surinder showed me the road faraway, asking me to see it properly and hold it in my eyes as memory as I will be away from all roads or any sort of civilization for next few days- Completely cut off. Last slope was so difficult that I almost rested after every few steps. At last I reached a cairn and just sat down tired and saw the tents of base camp away. I had sip of my ditto drink and then continued the path. Now it was raining and path was with lots of ups and downs crossing lot of rivulets and finally to the camp. Gujrathi had reached and called me, Sahilesh, Sid and Ganesh in the tent. Thanks to him and I just got flat in the tent. Everyone actually had to put his own tents as we were taught in Solang to put up tents. So I went to help others and helped in erectin
g couple of tents. Then we had food and took rest. Having tea here was amazing. The base c
amp was at superb location. Right opposite my tent was Seven Sisters and Hanuman Tibba and behind was Ladakhi and Shitidhar and further down was Manali and Friendship peaks. All were covered in snow. There was green cover or tree line at my camp and above that these peaks soared and tore opened the skies with their magnificent whiteness. There was a moraine behind my camp’s kitchen. My course mates had great fun playing Volley ball in evening and then chill started settling as it started getting darker. We had our dinner and best part the hot drink was served. Me and Sid decided that washing the mess tin here is really difficult as water was too cold. So we will share the tin and wash it alternately and not properly. Even if some oil remains it is fine but to put hands in that water was out of question.We had a lecture on the camp site in the evening and location of our toilets was shown and garbage disposal was also shown and discussed. I dug a pit behind my tent for disposing local garbage.
Day 14: Next day was acclimatization trek. We crossed moraine and then snowy slopes and reached the ridge of trunk of mountain. From here we slide down to the glacier (First slide of life on snow) and starte
d my life’s first glacier walk. I was in complete awe!!! I saw snow slurping down mountain slopes and tarns in the Glacier. The green tarns were mind boggling….Walking in snow is very heavy and with those heavy shoes, it was really heavy….so sliding down was much easier and fun filled….we all like small kids in garden started sliding at every slope we encountered even after instructions by instructors to not to do….After we came out of Glacier we had small walk along bank of a rivulet where sand was smoothed and water was gentle…Walking here with a breeze was really fascinating. Then we again came to moraine and started in direction of ‘Beas Kund’ – The place from where Beas originates. The Beas Kund is really beautiful pure sea green color lake….it is said that it first narrows down and then again opens inside…the divers came here to explore but could not touch the bottom. To touch the waters of Beas Kund you need to remove the shoes as it is considered to be sacred and in the Indian culture we worship our rivers….From here we started back to camp
through moraine and crossing lot of streams and up and down stones and mountain slopes….it was tiring trek of almost 16KM..Back at camp we had lunch and rest and then in evening we had a lecture.BTW there was also a BSF camp above our camp and some pother group had a camp too. The other group really had beautiful north Indian girls and while walking and panting too, I could not avoid looking at them from corner of my eyes. They caught me seeing them and wished me all d best. I realized all guys from our troupe looking at them…everyone’s eyes were ready to grab even a little bit of oasis in that desert. But I was proud that I could exchange a smile and wishes with them…ha ha ha……”Andhon mein kana raja”
Day 15&16: Next 2 days we learnt our snow craft activities. First was walking on snow based on angle of slope etc. The techniques taught were Duck Step, Side Step, Single Front Footing, Double Front Footing, Ice Axe holding techniques like Self Arrest, Self Belay etc. Going to snow field itself used to be tiring it was 25 mins walk up and down crossing few rivulets.
First we have lecture on the techniques to be practiced and demonstration on activities and then we would have to practice same. We used to get a small break for our ditto or tea and we used to be back by lunch. After lunch used to be volley ball or lecture and sometimes we used to do know practice. The discussion and fear of survival night had started doing rounds of camp. We had an important lecture on mountaineering terms. This is very essential.
Day 17: It was raining whole day and snowing in previous night. Instructors decided to wait for weather to clear, But rain gods were in our favor and we had time resting and sleeping in tents. The best rest in last few days. We really felt happy and lucky to have admin day in heights, But were we so lucky will be seen ahead?
Rain water seeped through in our tent and so Sid and me went out dug the channels around tent so that water doesn’t accumulate around tent. We also had ‘chana’ that Gujrati had got, But I was worriedsince our tent was gas chamber due to ‘Shailesh’. I hope ‘Phansukh Wangdu’
would have invented a device so that whenever a missile is fired; automatically perfume should be spread in air…..Very important invention it would have been….Also another stinking stuff was everyone’s socks outside the tent. Moment you open tent chain a pungent odor of socks would welcome you….We got our crampons fitted for our size from our instructors. Luckily my crampons needed no adjustment so I came back and again dozed off.
Day 18: It was raining again and we thought we will again be; not having to go to field. But when clouds cleared a little; we were immediately told to move to field and by the time we reached there, it started raining again. The chill took over us and we wrapped ourselves in plastic sheets. Muthu – my batch mate was not carrying one so we shared in a single plastic sheet….Rain slowed a little and then we had demonstration of cramponing, belaying and arrest techniques and then we moved back to camp cursing our instructors for the cold.
The rumor of survival night being not there grew strong as weather was bad. We also had a lecture on Everest by Mr. Rajeev Sharma himself and he motivated us to core. His lecture used to be really informative and really helped to shake our fears off. He filled us with confidence. I got a chance to have a personnel chat with him and was surprised to know he was a banker in earlier life and shared his story of marriage and some personnel experiences of mountains. Infact his lectures brought me more closer to this mighty and magnificent Himalayas.....
Day 19: Weather was clear and we moved to snow field. First we learnt belay techniques and then glissading and arrest techniques.
Arrest techniques like team arrest were practiced. 5 people were asked to rope up and then one will have a fall and others will have to arrest his fall. The 2 people will fall and so on. When it came to only one person holding arrest, My instructor came down and started pulling our rope and checking how strong are we on arrest. Believe it or not with his help and Mr. IAS we just started getting dragged on slopes. Even I was pulling but I realized it will tough for Kumar to hold and started doing arrest to stop drag. But we were pulled more for another 200 feet almost. Actually I was red with anger, But was helpless. After practicing, we had to tie our crampons and move up a 70 degree slope all teams roped up. Descending was by plunging and if instructor is not looking then glissading was allowed!!! While plunging I had 2 or 3 falls and used arrest techniques which were taught to me to stop on the snow field.
Somehow Plunging, I enjoyed but could not master the technique. Also we were taught of balling up. Below the crampons; snow gets accumulated and then crampons don’t give good grip and hence it is important to hit the crampons with you axe so that the accumulated snow comes off and you are ready to again have good grip. This has to be repeated for every 10-15 steps depending also on the type of snow. This is very important and to be really kept in mind as balling up has taken few lives or caused falls.
We went to collect firewood in evening. After the tiring day, We all tent mates decided to have a small nap. But we got so much exhausted that we all slept and even missed our dinner. Someone came to wake us up for fall-in and we were just left with a warning. This could have been big blunder.
Day 20: Today we were taken to the Beas glacier to learn Ice craft. It was almost 2 hour walk from our camp. We had to cross a snow gully and really ascend and then through moraine to Glacier. Then it was glacier walk for some time to reach the site to practice ice techniques.
We learnt rappelling to ice, jumaring, cramponing front pointing and flat footing. By 2.00 we felt the practice was over, but we got surprise. We got lunch at the practice site some aloo subji and roti. Then we were told to practice Z Pulley rescue, c pulley rescue and self arrest rescue.
After this we were told to rope up and climb the ice wall and then have walk on glacier. We reached the edge of glacier and then we had to descend down a slope. Our Fauji wanted to be first and for me mountains is not about race. It was for me more about sinking myself in them and enjoy them, feel with them and be one with them!!! But Mr. Fauji never understood this and he started dragging me. Finally my temper blew off and then I detached myself from rope and then stared towards our camp.
By the time I reached camp, I was completely exhausted and it was late..We had pakora and tea. In dinner we also had watermelon. I have never tasted such sweet melons in my life…They were really amazing. We were also given dry ration for height gain since we will not be having lunch on the height gain day.
Day 21: It was a beautiful morning and after breakfast we started by 6.00 A.M. for height gain. The qualifying height was 15,500 feet and on Shitidhar. First stop was at Beas Kund and from here one can continue on his own pace. We were allowed to wear our trekking shoes till the snow line and after that we had to wear our heavy climbing shoes of snow.
Me and Siddharth decided to partner at Beas Kund for further task. Beas Kund itself is at 11000 odd feet and we felt we will do it slowly and steadily. We had to achieve the height 12.00 noon and after that start descending. By 12.00 noon if you don’t reach height, the height you have reached is taken for recording. I just ascended my first slope and was panting and somehow I was not in my usual walking strength. But I carried on. We came to a resting spot before we had to cross snow gully and there we had bourbon biscuits. It was heaven. At this place I changed my shoes and put on the gaiters. Looking down we consoled ourselves we must have come at least 1000 feet or more up.
After this we crossed the snow gully and started ascending the slope. We could see some people on ridge of slope and it did not seem far. We felt now we will do it. But believe me guys it is tough. The slope just goes on gradually and never ends…it is called infinity….we crossed thin snow layer to a deep 2 feet snow and still to our dismay we were not able to see instructors and nor out goal. I felt I lost this battle and now just sat in snow tired and decided to take a nap. Dong one of the batch mates too joined me and motivated me to move on. We moved few steps more and gave up. Even Dong gave up and no one was ready to move. Siddharth finally moved 10 steps more and looked ahead and shouted back to me that he can see the goal and instructors. It is now near. Dong said forget it; but then somehow I motivated him to move. Last 50-100 steps were terrible. Each step was heavier than other and finally I reached the height of 15,800 feet and my name was noted down for qualifying the height. People going down were congratulating us and I gave them same warm congratulations back…
I thrust my Ice axe in snow and caught up some breathe and then immediately photography started. My rope mates were very happy as we were the rope whose all members made it to top. We had photos with instructors and all my friends.There was range at this place and I spoke to my dad after almost 8 days and told him that I am at this height and alive and kicking. Then I got a chance to look around and I was dumb founded at what I was seeing before my eyes…..
The Hanuman Tibba was looking so huge and really mighty….the peaks of seven sis
ters were completely different in landscape then I had imagined….on left was beautiful range which had snow covered peaks and green bottoms….I am short of words here but the moment was of trance…I was spellbound by this great mountains and they were holding me in their arms….it was just magnificent and all around was white snow and few rocks…..I can still visualize the scene and get lost into the whiteness, amazing depths that mother nature offers us, the feeling of being one in Himalayas…..a feeling of tranquility….After this me, Shailesh and few others started descending and we were really tired plunging through this snow….I was now good at plunging but still not very good….Our water resources were depleting and at a time we were out of stock…we scrambled down and reached a spot to refill our water and stomach with dry ration we were carrying….then got down to Beas Kund and got some rest….it was already late and most of the batch mates had already left…We also started trudging along towards the camp site..But to our surprise the rivulets which we had crossed earlier in morning had become wide with lot of force of water; due to melting of ice….We somehow found way to cross it and we had to cross at 3 different places to finally make it to moraine. We finally reached camp and had some snacks and tea…
Day 22: After a good and tiring sleep, we had tests today. We were divided in 2 groups in odd and even rope numbers. We were tested on following:
1] Rock Climbing Techniques
2] Equipment Identification
3] Rappelling
4] Knots
5] Ice-Axe part identification and uses
I did well in all test here and must have scored in practicals even Knots....
Evening we had an activity called Bush craft. In this 5 papers are hidden in bushes and every rope has to be roped up and move with their team in bushes to find the papers. Rope leaders need to sign on it. The ropes are send in bushes in time interval of 2 mins. We were second last rope and last rope was too quick and they were told to collect all papers. We missed signing on one paper. But it was fun and very violent activity. It was mad race…..People of same rope will cross bushes though different level i.e. one from top of a bush branch and next guy may go below of bush branch and then whole rope will get entangled…also many ropes i.e. teams were caught in one place and entangled with each other. We were warned by instructors to cooperate with each other, but no one was in that mood….all the ‘galis’ were heard in that one session and even I was party to that….at one moment 2 other ropes were hitting my carabineer and since it was not a screw carabineer, the gate opened and other 2 ropes 2 entangled with mine….i neither could remove them as they were pulling from both ends and even my team was pulling…finally I lost my cool and gave some ‘gallis’ to stop everyone and freed myself…I badly bruised my finger in the process….Mr. IAS saw this and really made fun of me afterwards…..
After the test, we had a lecture on survival and then the rumor of Survival Night will not be held had become that it will be held came true. Survival night was declared and we were told to get our bags with only water bottles and some necessary stuff like knife and medicines. We were not even given dinner. We were allowed to wear as much clothing as we want.
Everyone was asked to go out in moraine and search for a place to spend night. My tenties, Gurinder and couple of other guys found a amazing place under rock face. It was as good as cave. All thanks to Gurinder for this place. We had found some places earlier but they were not that great. Then I had some thin nylon ropes using which we created shade on face of our cave with our plastic sheets; as it could rain any time there. He was also innovative in creating chok nuts using stones. We also covered one side face with carry mat. Me, Suman and Ganesh collected some firewood which we never used.
At 11.30 P.M. it was so chill to survive there that everyone put their feet inside the rucksack. And at night there was rain too and chill increased. We just hugged each other and had warmth and spent the night. It was real fun and we reported back to the camp on time.
There was an issue some people came in midnight back to their tents and instructors were looking for them. But no one came ahead. Discipline is very strict and integral part of this course. I don’t why some people don’t get it?
Day 23: Morning me and my tenties went to field for photography where our test had happened. We had to pack and move to Solang today. We started around 9.00 A.M. and everyone went ahead. Me and Shailesh decided to walk slowly and say bye to this graceful mountains properly. We were taking this feast of nature slowly in our eyes and felt little heavier too as it will be quite some time to come back to this mountains again. We turned back and bid adieu
to Bakarthach crossed no, of streams and rivulets and crossed Patalsu to the tents in our institute campus at Solang. We reached late and so all tents were full. But our course senior took care of us and gave us best tent.Evening we learnt to make rope stretcher and other evacuation techniques and then had maggi and tea at Panda’s Dhaba. It is not Panda Dhaba, But we named it because there was beautiful Himachali girl in that dhaba, but little on heavier side and that kancha type look made her look like panda. Hence the name Panda Dhaba. – Coined by Sid.
We were tired too and hence got a good sleep, only 3 of us in tent me, Shailesh and Harmeet Oberoi, our Course Senior. Others had 5-6 members in tent. This rest was really important.
Day 24: We made our way back to Institute form Solang. I wished last bye to the Valley of Solang (including Pushpa and Panda) and moved towards Manali. Going to Manali was easy and we reached and checked in our hostel by 12.30 P.M. We checked into our room and it was a heavenly feeling. I was now feeling that this room is actually a luxury against the time and tough conditions in mountains we spent. The hostel was looking different to my eyes now. I felt we purposely were made to stay in this rooms earlier so that we get adapted slowly to worsened staying conditions.
We submitted back our equipment and then moved to Vashist for a bath after 14 days. Lot of batch mates were there and it was real fun to bath there. We came out and had food at a nearby restaurant and it was treat by me for my birthday, earlier in month.
Night I did reading of my notes and revised it and also helped some of my roomies and other batch mates and had a sound sleep. The soundness came from the joy of going back to family anf frnds anf thinking of sharing this wonderful and amazing experience.
Day 25: It was written test day and I was too confident of cracking this one. I knew I have to crack this for any marks lost in my practical. To my wonders I did amazingly well in written test and walked outside exam centre with a smile. I also helped few my neighbor students in the exam!!! Minimum marks are 12 to get qualified in the test for any need of grade.
Evening we got permission to go for movie. We really freaked out breaking our shackles and glaring at the flow of youthfulness on the Mall road of Manali. We saw ‘Kites’ most ridiculous part amongst all 26 days spent in Himalayas; at the Piccadilly Multiplex. BTW frnds the girl at ticket window in market is really beautiful and hence we all used to go to buy tickets…very cheap no?? but it was fun doing all this things there…all this things have a different high there….high of the mountains…..High of new friends and new relationships…a high of change....and high of the highest mountains of earth……
Day 26: After all the 25 days of hardship finally the course ended with a cultural program. Chief Guest was invited to say few words and our Mr. IAS gave a narration on what happened throughout the course. Mr.IAS did not forget to mention my bush craft episode and he really had made fun of our course senior. In the program there was a song sung by our Bihari babu – Suman followed by a Shayri. After this there was a dance depicting the ‘Mardani’ war style of Marathas and also one more song…Then there was a final formal closure speech by me and we had good lunch and it was time to depart….Initially, I was very happy that I had completed the course and in my heart dedicating this one to my lost; near and dear one – Mangesh Deshpande*. My heart was heavy that really course had ended and I will be away from this mountains and friends I made during this course. Some I may not meet again and other side was joy of going back to Mumbai and being with family and sharing this amazing experience with family and friends….
Shailesh and Sid dropped me on bus stand and I got into my bus from Manali to Delhi closed my eyes and had rewind of this most precious and wonderful 26 days…Bus started moving and I was feeling heavy saying good bye to the Beas and Himalayas. Beas was waving back the good bye with it usual naughtiness by jumping and dancing off boulders and at times silently flowing and asking me to come back…I waved back and closed my eyes to sleep visualizing the mountains and promising that I will be back again!!!
*Mangesh Deshpande was a amazing mountaineer and trekker; lost his life on Mt. Tinchen Khang on 19th Oct’ 2009.
Managesh Deshpande
P.S.: I got A grade in BMC and would like to dedicate this to Mangesh.
