Kalkalrai Conquered

Group: Chakram Hikers

Base Village: Jambhavli (Kamshet)

Base Village: Sankshi (Karjat side)

9th May’09: I had been to Dhak Bahiri before 3-4 times and every time the visit has been exciting. Recently we had also been to Dhak fort. Every time when we used to pass the Dhak pinnacle or famously known as Kalkarai Pinnacle I used to watch it with awe. This time we were here to scale this pinnacle. The mere idea of scaling this pinnacle gave made my adrenalin rush.

I was staying for last couple of days at Saurabh’s home in Talegaon and was on official tour in Pune. I had already got the necessities for trek with me and started for trek from Sau’s home. On 9th ; we did some shopping for Saurabh in evening in Shoppers stop and Central and came back to get prepared for trek. We bought some cucumbers and bread, cheese spread and also some bourbon biscuits for trek. At around 9.30 P.M. Saurabh’s dad dropped us on Mumbai-Pune highway where Mangesh, our leader was waiting for us. We got into his Swift and swiftly moved towards Kamshet with a stopover at Kanhe for Petrol. We even got the multipurpose fuel stove filled at petrol pump as it will be required for tea in morning next day. We came to Kamshet and halted at diversion of Jambhavli and looked around for some tea corner. But none was available. We called up Mak who was coming on bike from Mumbai and others who were in Qualis.

We then moved to highway dhaba and had tea and came back and met Mak and Reshma who had arrived from Mumbai. We decided to move ahead to Jambhavli and informed the people in Qualis about the same; as they took stop at Lonavla for dinner. We reached jambhavli in an hour or so and road was okay. Then me and Mak went on bike and checked whether car can be taken to Kondeshwar Mandir which is about 2 K.M. ahead of Jambhavli. We found, it can be done and even temple was empty to stay. So we continued back to Mangesh so that we can stay at Kondeshwar that night. It was little hot inside temple and hence we decided to sleep outside only. It was already around 2.00 A.m. to sleep.

10th May’09: I woke up at 5.30 A.M. and found people in Qualis had also turned up at night sometime. I freshened myself and put on an additional T-Shirt as it was getting very cold. I went to fetch water for tea. Lot of frogs were in the pond whom I shooed away and filled water, But a fish came in my vessel and I did not realize the same in darkness. After; while making tea someone realized about fish and it was filtered and thrown out. “Saala Nonveg Chaha Zala”

After tea and breakfast we started our trek towards Kalkarai. Suhas, Mangesh and Saurabh continued ahead and we trudged behind. By the time we reached Mangesh and Suhas had reached second ledge already i.e. around 80-90 feet of patch already done. We all reached base and settled down for rope to be fixed since we could not see third ledge which was a traverse towards exposed valley. Reshma had just come to rest and was reading some book called “Aag ka Dariya” and we were chitchatting. By 11.00 A.M. Ropes were fixed and climbing started. First went Kaustubh and then Saurabh and then was my turn. For First 2 ledges we were given Zumar for protection and support to climb which was easier. Just before second ledge was little space where we needed to hold on to some pinch holds and move our Zumar up and pull body up asap; as grips were small. It was little tricky one. But most of us got through easily here. Now was the most exciting part of the climb. From Second ledge you move little across towards right and come towards exposed valley. Here there is a little overhanging rock around which you have to take traverse and then you are on one of the big ledge. Mangesh asked me that whether I need ladder for this and I said no that I will attempt this one. First I caught the left steel bolt in my 2 fingers and a right screw bolt in one finger and pulled my body up and rested my right foot on small foot hold on exposed valley patch. Then Mangesh guided me to hold a inner cut in crack at knee level with my left hand and somehow took my left leg up too. Now slowly I moved my left hand form inner cut further towards right more. Now Mangesh said Mak from other ledge will guide me and I still could not see Mak but only could hear him. I was asked to put my right hand right across the the stomach of the rock and look for a big crack in it. The crack was not visible as we needed to bend far ahead for it to be seen. Mak was guiding my hand like little ahead, one more inch; little up etc. as only he could see my hand movement searching for the crack. This time I received a cramp in my right leg and left leg started to shiver. Mangesh was firmly holding my left leg and my first attempt of searching the crack had failed and I recoiled. Then I started again and once more I failed. Now I attempted third time and immediately this time I located crack and then I removed my left hand from inner crack and put in the newly located big crack and pulled my body towards Mak. I was surprised to see such a huge ledge there. 5-6 people will easily stand there. My throat had gone parched and I just could not speak when I reached near Mak. He asked me to sit for some time and offered me water. Thanks to Sada I even got Guava juice to drink there. It was amazing experience. Now ahead was a 7-8 feet high patch and there was hardly any place to put your feet below and pull up your body. I caught a hump on the patch and pulled my body up and immediately rested my left leg on steel bolt and then with press hold pulled myself up. After that It was just too easy another 10-12 feet and I was on top of Kalkarai. The satisfaction of this climb was amazing.

Suhas, Sagar and Saurabh welcomed me on top and I made Jaljeera for everyone. After some photography on top I started rapelling down the pinnacle. First 15 feet went smooth and then was overhang. I saw Mangesh down on second ledge where I was supposed to stop to complete the first patch of rapelling. I began slowly on overhang patch to rappel down. Mangesh told me to leave both my hands and he will get me down. I blindly trusted him and left the hands from rope and in a minute I was down standing next to Mangesh. Next rappelling was very easy and I got down to the khind junction(Junction where straight goes to Bahiri, right goes to Dhak fort and left to this Pinnacle). By 2.30 everyone was done and we packed and had lunch too and were on return journey. By 4.00 we reached Kondeshwar Temple and then moved towards Jambhavli. We had some nimbu pani and jaljeera and moved towards Kamshet. Seeing off everyone at Kamshet, Me, sau and Mangesh took back old Mumbai-Pune Highway for Talegaon. We dropped at Talegaon junction and took tumtum to Sau’s home. Next day I caught Sahaydri to be back to Mumbai. The climb was mesmerizing and will always remain a memorable experience. After this I have decided next Apr-May’10 I am going for NIM – Basic course in Mountaineering.

Padmadurg-Samrajgad-Revdanda

Fort: Padmadurg
Type: Sea-Fort
Base Village: Rajpuri

Fort: Samrajgad
Base Village: Ekdara

Fort: Revdanda
Base Village: Revdanda

Date: 25th and 26th April’09

25th April’09: This was a private trek organized by Vinay and entry was by invitation only. The main aim was to see Padmadurg, a sea fort bang opposite Janjira near Alibaug 4 K.M. inside sea. Actually no one is allowed on this fort only local fishermen go there. Me and Jayram decided to go for this as it will be difficult to get a chance again visiting this fort. I started from my house at 10.15 P.M. and went to Uday’s place at Lodha heaven in Dombivli. We had hired his Trax cruiser for journey and from there we took Trax and dropped his relatives in Mulund and reached near Chakram’s office by 11.30 P.M. One of the members, Hemlata was late and we began our journey towards Murud by 12.30 A.M. We picked up Nitin at SK wheels, Turbhe on the way. Me and Rajan were seated in front. Jayaram was supposed to join us at Murud.

26th April’09: We reached Wadkhal naka by 2.30 P.M. and had tea. After this the cold wind started taking toll on me and started getting drowsy. But Rajan woke me up and then I felt fresh. Then Rajan dozed off and we inched our way towards Murud. We passed through Phansad sanctuary and forest was really looking dense. At Murud, We caught up with Jayaram and moved towards village. We reached by 4.15 A.M. There was a big temple of Lord Ganesha and poojari was already preparing for Pooja. So we decided against sleeping in temple premises as sound of bell will disturb us. We slept near a hanuman temple and dosed off for an hour and half. Then someone woke me up at 6.00 A.M. and I started preparing for day ahead. First time I had a slept under open skies with sound of waves nearby. It was great feeling. After this was best part, searching for place to pass stools. Luckily Sachin had got tissues, So we made upto rocks on the beach. We were told by villagers not to go farther as then begun area for females. Best part is once high tide comes everything will be washed away and rocks will be clean once again to take shit of next day ☺. After all daily chores, we did a small climb to reach place of the Village head of fishermen and settled outside his house for breakfast. The village head was generous and arranged for tea too. We were going to sail in his boat.

Then we walked on beach to reach jetty and go onto the boat and started our journey towards Padmadurg. Initially everyone had fear of falling as boat cruised through waves but slowly everyone settled down and sea was clam. We went parallel to Janjira and water here was dirty brown in color. Once we crossed Janjira water turned soothing green like Mediterranean. Far off we could see Padmadurg standing in middle of sea. We had Apte Kaka with us and so we had a dive into history of the fort. The history is that the Siddhi's had controlled the land from the Kundalika river to the Savitri river near Harihareshwar during their rule and were never defeated. Siddhi's were basically Abyssinians (current Eithopia) and had come here by sea. They built Janjira on the island and made it very strong and controlled the sea and land from here. There are underwater tunnels from Janjira which open on Land in the vicinity. In one of them Villagers still enter and kill bats there. This information was provided by boatman’s sons.

Shivaji Maharaj waged a losing battle against the Siddhi's but he could not capture Janjira anytime. Shivaji Maharaj built Padmadurg to keep a check on Siddhi as he could not let Siddhi rule with oppression. Padmadurg was built around 1675 by Daulatkhan (an architect) and was in the control of Marathas until 1698 when Siddhi captured it and ruled it until the end.

The fort is divided into 3 parts. The main fort, the padkot (or the supporting fort) and the retaining wall of the fort. We reached Padmadurg and got off, the boat was rocking strongly as high tide was setting in and we got down with great difficulty on slippery stones. We got down and reached first door of Fort called as Darya Darwaza. We did not enter from Darya Darwaza but went around the fort and entered the padkot part. Padmadurg was named as Padmadurg because of the shape like lotus petals as seen in picture here. Here Apte Kaka read out a letter written by Shivaji Maharaj to one Jivaji Vinayak, Who was possible to provide necesseities to buit the Fort. The fort is built with some special cementing material which has not got eroded even though the stone has got eroded.

We then saw the third part the wall and one of the wall centres had collapsed creating a hole. The scene was just too beautiful. Then we entered main fort through main door. Here are few barracks made by indian customs. There are 3 huge tanks but were dry and some store rooms. The fort is scattered with cannons everywhere. I had read that fort had 46 cannons and some had fallen from their places down on rock below or may be pushed down by someone. I could locate 37 of these. Apte kaka also told story of Kanoji Angre and then we decided to depart after a group photo. Also there are stories that RDX for Bombay Blasts was landed on this fort. After this we started our return journey and went from other side of Janjira to the jetty. Then we started our journey towards Ekdara for Samrajgad.

This fort is hardly known by anyone and was built by Samrajpant under Shivaji Maharaj vigilance. The fort eas built to keep watch on Siddi’s activities. But it was won by shrewd siddhi in 1675. There is ‘L’ shaped bastion left which defines the existence of fort. Once you cross this bastion and move towards opposite end on left you see is Janjira. The view of Janjira Is too beautiful from here. On the right you see Padmadurg. Apte Kaka here told us the story of how Samrajgad was conquered by shrewd siddi. Then we quickly got down and went towards Patil Khanaval for lunch. We had good lunch and then we started our return journey, Onwards we decided to look at Revdanda fort. I knew Revdanda is famous for Birla Mandir but never knew it also had a sea fort.

The sea fort of Revdanda is quite big and has a vast expanse. There are few houses inside the fort. Also an old siddheswar temple. The fort is built by Potugese and houses famous Square bastion ‘chaukuni buruj’. Oppsite the fort once you come out on beach you can see Korlai on hill. The Revdanda fort also has few canons and even has a church. The walls are 2.5 ft to 5ft thick. We took rest for a while here and staretd our return journey to Mumbai.